How To Change Guitar Strings


Ahh….the joys of changing guitar strings. I remember my first, second and third attempts. Each attempt ended with a string snapping, whether it was the low e or high e. I finally got frustrated and took it into a guitar shop, paying $15 for a job that probably took 30 minutes to complete. I gave it one last attempt and finally got it right.

Changing strings is not an easy task, but it is not the most difficult thing, either. All it requires is patience, persistence, the right tools and being shown how to do it the right way. I had gone through many tutorials, only to find that none had shown me how to do it the easiest, best way. My hope is that this tutorial will teach you how to change strings easily.

So how often should I change strings, anyway?

It all depends on how much you play and the quality of the strings. If you play a lot (meaning at least an hour a day, seven days a week), you should change the strings at least once a month, possibly twice. However, if you are more of a recreational player (and don’t play an hour plus, every day) you can probably hold off on changing strings and only do so every 2 months. Certain more expensive brands of strings, like Martin’s or the excellent Elixir’s, tend to last longer, so they might not have to be changed very often. A good rule of thumb is if the strings show signs of discoloration (rust), it’s time for a change.

What strings should I buy?

Acoustic and Electric guitar strings come in different gauges and brands. Generally speaking, light strings are best for beginners because they are easier on the fingers. The downside to light strings is that they don’t sound as good detuned (that is, tuned lower than standard tuning) as heavier strings do.

As far as what brand to buy, I personally prefer Martin SP’s for Acoustic guitar, and D’Addario EXL 110’s. These range in price from $3.50 to $7.50 per set of strings. If you can afford to pay $10 a set, getting Elixir guitar strings is a good choice because they last longer and sound better.


Getting things started:


On Acoustic guitar:

To start off, you have to remove the old strings first. This is best done by removing one string, replacing it with a new string, and then moving on to the next string etc. It is not a good idea to remove all strings at one time, as this can cause the neck to bend.

Let’s start with the low e string (the thickest one). You’ll turn the tuner for the low e string clockwise (if its facing you) to loosen the string. Keep turning it until the string is completely loose. When it is, pull the string out of the tuning peg. Now, go to the bridge of the guitar and take out the corresponding bridge peg (you can do this using a pair of pliers). Pull out the ball-end of the string and dispose of it.

On Electric guitar:

The process will be the same, except you will not have to pull out a bridge peg. You’ll just pull the string out from the back of the bridge.

On Acoustic guitar:

Next, get the new low e string out of the package. Stretch it out before putting the ball-end of the string in the bridge hole. Slide it down there about 2-3 inches. Put the bridge peg back in its place. Next, pull the other end of the string up until there is no slack inside of the bridge. If the peg pops out, just put it back in.

On Electric guitar:

You’ll slide the string through the bridge hole and pull on the other end of the string until it is completely through the hole.

Acoustic and Electric guitar:

Next, you’ll thread the string through the little hole in the middle of the tuning peg. Pull it all the way through and bend the string so that it is at a 90 degree angle, facing you (and not the opposite tuning peg). Place a finger on the string on the fretboard, to create artificial tension. Next, slowly turn the tuner counterclockwise, making sure that on the first wrap around the peg, the end of the string goes under the slack of the string (on the following turns, it will go over the slack). You might want to take a minute long break to allow the guitar to adjust to the tension after turning the peg a couple times. Pluck the string after each turn, checking to see if it is loose (buzzing) or tight. If it’s tight, get out your tuner and play the string. If it shows up as a D note, you’ll want to turn a little bit more until it is an E note. If it shows up as an F and is tight, you’ll want to loosen (turn clockwise) the string. Keep repeating the process of tightening/loosening until the note is an E—when it is, cut off the slack (cut it as close to the peg as possible, so that the sharp end of the string doesn’t stick out and cut yourself or someone else).

The other strings:

You’ll do the same thing for all the other strings. The difference is on the G, B, and high E (thinnest string), you’ll be bending the string at a 90 degree angle the opposite way of how you did it before.

And that’s all there is to it. At first, changing strings will seem difficult and may take hours to complete (I know it did for me at first!). Rest assured, it does get easier with each string change. You may break strings at first, but this is a skill that every guitarist should know. It’ll save you money in the long term.